Tsum valley trek | World’s best preserved ancient Tibetan Buddhism in 2024

I asked Charlie whether or not he is fit enough to do a Tsum valley trek, to my surprise he insisted on guarding home and I can go with Fluffy.

Charlie decided to stay home in Kathmandu and plan for our next adventure while we were away for 12 to 14 days on the Tsum Valley trek. Kanchenjunga circuit is where we want to go next.

Trekking to the Tsum valley was on our itinerary while doing Manaslu circuit back in 2021 autumn. Since we did Manaslu circuit trek after monsoon, there was a huge landslide en route to Tsum so we cannot make it and ended up doing the regular Manaslu trek with side trips.

If you are looking for a less crowded trek of approximate 14 to 16 days, then the Tsum valley trek could be a right fit for you. Let Fluffy and I guide you through the details to plan your epic trek to Tsum Valley | The Hidden Valley of Happiness

Tsum valley trek overview

Tsum valley was forbidden for foreign national by the government of Nepal and opens in 2008 only. Vivid – exact translation of the word Tsum in Tibetan language is the native homeland of Tsumba people.

Tsumba are indigenous people with their unique dialect influenced by Tibetan and local here have been practicing Buddhism from very long time. It was said that Guru Rinpoche and Milarepa, two revered Buddhist saints, meditated in the caves of this valley.

The ancient Tibetan Buddhism is nurtured by Tsum, and the trek here can be considered a pilgrimage.

Tsum valley trek quick facts

Tsum valley trek distance | 140 km - 87 miles
Days | 15 - 17
Highest Elevation | 3700 m | 12139 ft
Difficulty | Moderate
Permits | Tsum RAP & MCAP
Guide | Mandatory
Accommodation | Teahouse & Monastery
Cost | USD 900 - 1800 

Tsum valley trek highlights

• Varied landscape from 900 m / 2952 ft to 3700 m / 12139 ft
• Rich culture of Tibetan Buddhism
• Stunning view of holy Mount Ganesh Himal
• Significantly less crowded than other mainstream treks
• Milarepa cave
• Overnight stay in Mu Gompa and Gumba Lundang

Tsum valley trek in photos

Before you go further ahead of this detailed guide, enjoy some these photos that I took on the Tsum valley trek with Fluffy. Do check us out our other adventures in Instagram.

Where is Tsum valley?

Tsum valley is located in Gorkha district – Nepal, approximately some 140 km | 87 mile northwest of Kathmandu. Tsum valley trek start and end in Machha Khola at 900 m | 2950 ft from sea level.

Note: Machha Khola is the same starting point for Manaslu circuit.

The Tsum valley trek takes the same route both in and out, unlike Manaslu. To the east of Tsum lies Ganesh Himal, and to the west lies Mt. Manaslu.

How to hike Tsum Valley?

Having a trekking guide is compulsory for the Tsum valley trek, hence any independent trekking is not entertained by Nepal government here. Also, all the necessary trekking permits for Tsum have to be processed and obtained through a local trekking outfit.

Note: You also need to be in a group of two to obtain the permit.

You have two options to choose from for organizing the Tsum Valley trek, compared to trekking in other open areas such as Everest, Annapurna, and Langtang.

Booking Tsum valley trek through an agency

Easiest among two available options to arrange your trip to Tsum valley is booking your trip through a reputed trekking agency is the safest and hassle free. Everything is taken care of from required permits to your food & accommodation during trek accompanied by the local guide.

Hiring a guide and or a porter for Tsum valley trek

If you already have a good recommendation for a guide, then you have the option of hiring them directly. Your chosen guide still need to collaborate with a local agency to obtain the necessary permits.

Please do make sure that your guide and or a porter is well insured. Normally, this coverage is arranged by the agency who is issuing your trekking permits.

Tsum valley trek itinerary

Depending on your time & interest, you can add any side trips along the way, or combine Tsum valley with the Manaslu circuit trek. This time I have done it a total of 12 days Tsum valley trek Kathmandu to Kathmandu, so an ten days of hiking and two days of driving.

Tsum valley trek 12 days itinerary

Day 01	Drive from Kathmandu to Machha Khola
Day 02	Machha Khola to Jagat
Day 03	Jagat to Lokpa
Day 04	Lokpa to Chumling
Day 05	Chumling to Chekampar
Day 06	Chekampar to Nile
Day 07	Day trip to Mu Gompa
Day 08	Nile to Laar
Day 09	Laar to Ripchet
Day 10	Ripchet to Lokpa
Day 11	Lokpa to Jagat
Day 12	Jagat to Machha Khola and drive to Kathmandu

Note: I was lucky enough to encounter a private jeep returning to Kathmandu on the day I arrived in Machha Khola from Jagat!

Alternative Tsum valley trek itinerary

This is the typical itinerary for the Tsum Valley trek. I did not find this itinerary significantly different from what I did. Although it’s longer, it’s still suitable for those who have little or no experience trekking in high altitude or long distances.

Tsum valley trek 15 days itinerary

Day 01	Drive from Kathmandu to Machha Khola
Day 02	Machha Khola to Jagat
Day 03	Jagat to Lokpa
Day 04	Lokpa to Chumling
Day 05	Chumling to Chekampar
Day 06	Chekampar to Nile
Day 07	Nile to Mu Gompa
Day 08	Mu Gompa to Laar Village
Day 09	Laar Village to Dumje via Rachen Gompa
Day 10	Dumje to Gumba Lundang
Day 11	Gumba Lundang to Ripchet
Day 12	Ripchet to Lokpa
Day 13	Lokpa to Jagat
Day 14	Jagat to Machha Khola
Day 15	Drive from Machha Khola to Kathmandu

Note: You have the option to extend your stay at Gumba Lundang by one day to explore Ganesh Himal.

Combining Tsum valley trek with Manaslu circuit

I’ve experienced both treks on two separate trips, but I can imagine how fantastic it would be to do both on one trip. If you have three weeks to travel, it’s best to do both the Tsum Valley trek and the Manaslu Circuit.

Fluffy and I didn’t take any videos while hiking to Tsum Valley. Our plan was made at the last minute. Our video for Manaslu is an excellent way to visualize the trip. To be honest, I consider the cultural experiences in both Manaslu and Tsum to be identical.

My recommendation for this trek is to follow this itinerary:

Manaslu circuit and Tsum valley trek 22 days itinerary

Day 01	Drive from Kathmandu to Machha Khola
Day 02	Machha Khola to Jagat
Day 03	Jagat to Lokpa
Day 04	Lokpa to Chumling
Day 05	Chumling to Chekampar
Day 06	Chekampar to Nile
Day 07	Nile to Mu Gompa
Day 08	Mu Gompa to Laar Village
Day 09	Laar Village to Dumje via Rachen Gompa
Day 10	Dumje to Gumba Lundang
Day 11	Gumba Lundang to Ripchet
Day 12	Ripchet to Lokpa
Day 13	Lokpa to Deng
Day 14	Deng to Namrung
Day 15	Namrung to Lho
Day 16	Lho to Sama Gaun
Day 17	Acclimatization day
Day 18	Sama Gaun to Samdo
Day 19	Samdo to Dharmashala
Day 20	Dharmashala to Bimthang via Larkya La Pass
Day 21	Bimthang to Dharapani
Day 22	Dharapani to Kathmandu drive via Beshi Sahar

Note: On the 17th day of the itinerary, you have the option to choose between Manaslu Base Camp and Pungyen Gompa for your hike.

Note: Normally, for regular 13 days Manaslu trek there are two acclimatization days, one in Sama Gaun and one in Samdo. When you combine this with Tsum valley you can easily skip one.

The reason for this is that you will be well acclimatized by the time you arrive at Sama Gaun and Samdo.

Side trips along Tsum valley trek route

Mu Gompa

Mu Gompa is the last settlement on the northern tip of Tsum Valley. It is just a monastery with some 200 plus kids studying to be a monk, and the nearest village from here are Nile and Chule. Local Tsumba people go to Tibet for trading once or twice a year passing through Mu Gompa.

The main highlight of this monastery is an overnight stay it offers to it visitor giving a chance to experience a daily life of monks.

And, not to be forgetting the excellent view of Ganesh Himal.

Note: This monastery is for male students only.

Rachen Gompa

Located near the villages of Chekampar and Laar, Rachen Gompa is a recently renovated monastery. Visitors are not allowed for overnight stay. There are plenty of homestay options to choose from in Laar village.

You can pay a day visit here, especially early morning to take part in praying ceremony.

Note: This monastery is for female students only.

Milarepa’s Cave

It is believed to be a holy cave where Dakini transformed into a dove to listen Dharma from Milarepa.

Entire cave is divided into three separate chambers with a meditation hall, a small cave with a clear footprint on a large rock and another small cave with two holy statues.

Gumba Lundang

Gumba Lundang is located on the southeastern end of the Tsum valley right next to the other side of the moraine from Ganesh Himal.

This is a small monastery for selected number of nuns who stayed and practiced there worshipping the holy Ganesh Himal. Totally isolated from the nearby villages this overnight stay’s experience is unmatched and is as authentic as it could ever be.

This is probably the best viewpoint for Ganesh Himal.

Ganesh Himal Base Camp

If you have a day to spare and you are already in Gumba Lundang then you should do a hike to Ganesh Himal Base Camp. Please note that this mountain is forbidden to climb, the base camp is just the place for local to worship this holy adobe.

The trail is used a few times a year by local during certain religious occasion and just a handful of trekkers. I would say it’s a blessing to walk this holy trail.

Tsum valley trek cost – How much money should you plan?

Depending on the style of trek you are doing whether booking a full board package tour through an agency or hiring your own guide and or a porter, the number of days you spend on the trail and the season you are trekking cost can vary widely.

Booking your Tsum valley trekking with a local agency is always a good idea to avoid any hassles or arranging logistics for the trip. 15 to 16 day trek to the Tsum valley including guide, permits, transportation and your food and accommodation would be in between 900 to 1000 USD.

Usually drinks during the trek and tips for your guide and or a porter are excluded.

If you are tight on a budget, then a slightly cheaper alternative is to hire a guide, pay his salary, your permits and transportation. This is what I usually do, and with my experience doing a Tsum valley trek in 2023 I am going to give you the breakdown of my total trek cost.

Transportation

Both the start and end points of the Tsum valley trek are Machha Khola. There is a daily local bus service from Kathmandu to Machha Khola costing in between 12 to 13 USD per person.

These buses leaves in between 6:30 to 8:00 am, and please note that some are direct bus and some you have to change in Arughat. If you are under time constraint then there’s also a night bus option and it goes all the way up to Machha Khola.

Note: Direct bus to Machha Khola leaves from New Bus Station Gongabu while bus to Arughat leaves from Dhading Bus Station Machha Pokhari.

To experience a comfortable and smooth ride, you can consider upgrading to private jeep transportation instead of the fun packed local buses. You can choose your own departure time from your hotel, and I personally recommend not later than 8 am to avoid traffic.

Depending on a make and model of a vehicle, it can fit anywhere from six to nine people comfortably and cost approximately USD 250 for one way journey. The most common option is Indian made Mahindra Scorpio which fits six people and larger one is older Toyota and Nissan which fit up to nine people.

Tsum valley trek permits

There are two types of permits needed for Tsum valley trek.

1. Restricted area permit (RAP)

For the months of September to November RAP fee for Tsum valley trek is USD 40 per person for one week and extra USD 7 per person per day after the first week.

For the remaining months of the year it will cost USD 30 per person for one week and extra USD 7 per person per day after the first week.

This RAP can only be issued through a trekking agency with a minimum of two trekkers.

2. Manaslu conservation area permit (MCAP)

MCAP costs NPR 3000 per person and there is no time restriction. You need to provide one passport size photo for this permit.

Note: All permits for Tsum valley trek are non refundable and non transferrable once issued.

If you plan to combine Tsum valley with Manaslu circuit, then you will need additional two permits, Annapurna conservation area project entry permit and RAP for Manaslu.

ACAP will cost you NPR 3000 and RAP for Manaslu is USD 100 per person for first week and additional USD 15 per person per day from September to November.

RAP from Manaslu for the rest of the months will cost you USD 75 per person for the first week and additional USD 10 per person per day after the first week.

Trekking guide for Tsum valley trek

Having a guide is mandatory by the law for Tsum valley, and you are expected to pay daily wages approximately 25 to 30 USD for a guide. Hiring a porter is optional and costs USD 18 to 20 per day. The standardised ratio of trekkers to the porter is 2:1 where weight shouldn’t exceed 22 kilos. Each trekker can give up to 11 kilos to the porter.

Above daily wages cover salary, food & accommodation and insurance for your guide and or a porter. Additional to the rate you also need to cover their transportation.

Tips is a big part of their income. While there is not a standard percentage for tipping it is expected and totally up to you to tip the worth amount for their services. My suggestible tipping amount is USD 150 for a guide and USD 100 for a porter.

Food and accommodation during Tsum valley trek

It is quite common to have a standard menu in all the teahouses along the trekking route. Commonly, these available food items range from the Nepal’s national dish Dal Bhat to western dishes like pizza & pasta. Food options are limited while you are staying in monasteries and homestay.

Prices are cheaper in the lower end and expensive in the higher end. On average, you will be spending 5 to 6 USD per meals with drinks are extra.

Most of the teahouses on this trek route are quite basic, but neat and clean at the same time. Most of the rooms come with twin bed as standard and a shared bathroom.

Mattress, pillow and blanket comes as standard but I recommend bringing sleeping bags for your own extra comfort. On average, expect to pay USD 3 to 5 per night for accommodation on twin sharing basis.

Accommodation option is monasteries and homestay are quite basic and generally dorm type sharing with 5 – 6 trekkers in a room during busier times.

Note: You’ll find electricity in most of the villages on the Tsum valley trek.

Miscellaneous cost during Tsum valley trek

Above cost are the minimum you need to budget for and they are unavoidable. Additional to the above there are other miscellaneous costs you should be aware of for budgeting.

Hot shower facility is available in most of the teahouses except in monasteries and homestay. It comes at an extra USD 3 to 5 per hot shower on average.

Charging your electronics like mobile phone, camera is free most of the time. Please be prepared to pay a dollar or two in some places for a full charge. WiFi is available in some places and not always free, I remember being charged USD 3 at a maximum in some places for the entire stay.

Considering all the expenses I have break down here in a ballpark, you will be looking at somewhere in between USD 900 to 1300 for a 15 day Tsum valley trek. Price variations here reflect different transportation mode, porter, or not and the choice of your meals.

How difficult is Tsum valley trek?

The trek start point Maccha Khola is at an altitude of 900 m / 2950 ft only. And, you will be slowly gaining elevation each day and will reach Mu Gompa at 3400m on the 7th day of the trek.

Typically, an acclimatization day is not planned in the Tsum valley trek itinerary! The logic is based on Mu Gompa being the highest point you will be staying overnight and at this elevation you are not at risk of being suffered from altitude related sickness. Also, you won’t continue to any further higher elevation after Mu Gompa.

The route condition is quite stable except for a few landslide sections. The chances of trail being swapped is always higher during monsoon. There are some portions of the trail where you need to make some short steep climbs.

Other than that, there’s no extreme difficult parts you should be concerned about.

Having said that, you may find the walk from Chumling to Chekampar quite daunting due to narrow and exposed walking at the final stretch to get into Chekampar. All in all, in my opinion, Tsum valley trek is a relatively moderate trek for those with certain trekking experience.

At least, altitude related sickness is the last thing you need to be worried about.

When is the best time for Tsum valley trek?

It is very important to plan your trip in a right time frame of the year to have a smooth trekking experience in Tsum. For the Tsum valley trekking I would recommend spring season as the best time of the year for trekking from early March until the end of May.

Autumn season from early October until the end of December is the second best time of the year after spring. In general, weather condition is very stable at this time of the year, especially in terms of view. Please be aware that early autumn is at risk with landslide after the monsoon.

With no involvement of crossing high mountain passes Tsum valley is easily accessible during the winter as well. Despite cold, with little to no other trekkers trekking in winter will offer you unmatched experience here in Tsum. The only downside of winter is cold and Mu Gompa will most likely remain closed. Also, majority of local will descend to Kathmandu or Pokhara to escape the harsh snow.

The monsoon season is at a high level of risk with a potential landslide in a few sections. I strongly advise against trekking to Tsum during monsoon from the mid June until the late September. If you are planning this trip post monsoon during early autumn then you should still check the current trail conditions, especially between Lokpa and Chumling.

Guide and porter for Tsum valley trek

You have to have a local trekking guide for Tsum valley trek. For this you can get a guide assigned by the trekking agency you book your trip with, this is by far the easiest way. Or you can find your own guide if you have some recommendations from your circle who have used him or her before.

Hiring a porter for Tsum valley is optional and up to your requirement of having a one or not. You can walk light enjoying your trek and directly support the local economy at the same time by hiring a porter.

Porters are generally provided with a duffel bag by the agency to carry your backpack, and the normal weight limit for the porter is 22 kilos.

Note: On top of this weight, they also need to carry their own backpacks.

The salary you have paid for the guide and porter cover their food, accommodation, transports and insurance. Tips are never included on that rate.

Take it into account that guiding is a seasonal job, where tip is a big part of their income. In Nepal, there isn’t any fixed amount or percentage for tipping. It depends entirely on your appreciation of their services.

Wifi and phone connectivity in Tsum valley

NCELL and NTC are two of the major service providers when it comes to the mobile network providers.

For trekking in Tsum valley, I strongly recommend getting a NTC sim card as it has wider and better coverage throughout the region. With NCELL your signals will disappear from the very next of the trek!

Mobile data is barely usable after the first few days being on the trail. WiFi in general is available in almost all the places along the way.

There won’t be WiFi in Gumba Lundang, where one needs to descend down at least an hour to make the phone call in case of emergency.

Risk associated with Tsum valley trek

You will be exposed to multiple factors over the span of elevation from 900 m to 3700 m during this Tsum valley trek.

Machha Khola at around 900 m from the sea level where the trek start being in a warmer climate zone poses a high threat of mosquitos, especially during monsoon season.

Heavy and continuous rain during the monsoon season can cause landslides, floods or trail blockage. In such cases, you would have no other option but to go back down the same way. This means your itinerary will be affected.

Altitude sickness is another risk you should take into account, although it’s not too high during the Tsum valley trek.

Therefore, always have a buffer day at the end of your trip considering all these risks associated while trekking. I recommend having at least of two nights planned in Kathmandu before your international flight.

Note: Weather related risks are higher in monsoon and winter.

Travel insurance for Tsum valley trek

When you are into adventure activities, always prepare for the worst and a proper travel insurance is the must have for Tsum valley or any other trekking. Landslide could be a real issue during monsoon and post monsoon, many trekkers were stranded in Tsum valley.

Please make sure your coverage is up to 4000 m from the sea level, disclosing medical expenses and evacuation is covered. The insurance company I would recommend is World Nomads.

Being a restricted area, a proper approval should be obtained from the Home Ministry to carry out any rescue flight in Tsum valley. This approval process will easily take 30 minutes or even longer.

Make sure to provide all the necessary details of your insurance coverage policy to your trek operator. This detail should include your policy number, name of provider and an emergency contact number.

If you an undertaking a trek with your recommended guide, then make sure he knows how to handle the procedure if needed.

What to pack for Tsum valley trek?

Depending on the time of year, it is crucial to pack all essential gear in a correct manner. Being at an elevation range of 900 meters to 3700 meters, it’s important to be prepared for all seasons. My assumption is that the weight of your backpack should be approximately 10 kilos.

If you’re hiring a porter they’ll take care of the main luggage, just pack a small backpack with your daily necessities only each hiking day only.

Here is what I usually pack for teahouse treks in Nepal, and I carried the same for the Tsum Valley trek too:

Backpack | Lowepro Photo Sport BP 200 AW II

Light down jacket good for 5° Celsius
Heavy down jacket good for negative 10° Celsius

Two pairs of light walking trouser
One thick walking trouser

One set of thermal
One fleece jumper
One windbreaker
Few pair of t-shirts

Sunhat, gloves and sunglass
Personal hygiene kit

Hiking boot and camp shoe
Few pairs of socks

I recommend having a sleeping bag as you may need to settle in a basic accommodation during the Tsum valley trek. Additional to above packing list, I also recommend having an insect repellant spray.

Don’t forget to bring a copy of Tsum valley trek map with you too.

Where to stay before and after Tsum valley trek?

Kathmandu

Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal is hub for getting around the country with plethora of public transportation options. I highly recommend staying at least one to two nights in Kathmandu upon arrival. This will give you a good time prepare for your trip and also get rid of jet lag if you are traveling from different time zones.

Thamel in particular is the most popular location for international travelers. If you still need to arrange your trekking gears, then Thamel has plenty of stores with options of both rental or buying.

Accommodation options in Thamel easily range from USD 5 per night on a hostel with a dorm bed to luxury five star hotels costing USD 200 or more.

Pokhara

Pokhara in general is a major gateway for trekking in Annapurna region. However, it is not convenient for staying prior to your Tsum valley trek. I highly recommend heading to Pokhara at the end of your trek if you have at least three to four nights to spare.

Identical to Thamel, Pokhara too has a wide range of accommodation with plenty of eateries by the Fewa lake. With it’s chill and calm vibe, many travelers prefer to stay longer in Pokhara compared to Kathmandu.

Think of renting a bike or scooter and explore the caves, viewpoints and museums in the city. If you are more into adventure activities, then you can look into bungee jumping, zip line and paragliding.

For the return journey to Kathmandu, you can go with a tourist bus or a short domestic flight.

Note: Kathmandu is in much closer distance from Machha Khola instead of going to Pokhara.

Tsum valley trek FAQ

Tsum valley trek is relatively a new trekking route permitted for trekking only from 2008. Information is quite limited and I have seen many questions on some forums, especially on combining Tsum valley with Manaslu circuit.

I have compiled a list of ten frequently asked questions about the Tsum valley trek. Feel free to ask any questions that you may have related to this awesome trek if your questions are not covered on my list.

My thoughts on doing Tsum valley trek

Trekking in the Tsum valley is best to experience ancient Tibetan culture outside of Tibet still these days. If you are more into monasteries, this could be one of the best two week tea house trek, no doubt on that.

Having done a Tsum valley trek once, I will not do this trek again unless I have enough time to combine this with Manaslu circuit. My other approach would be accessing this region via Ganesh Himal from the eastern side of the Tsum.

It’s a boring alternative to have trekked the same route back instead of exploring new landscape and culture everyday like Manaslu or other circuit trekking in Nepal.

If you have any queries regarding this trek, please leave a comment below and I will do my best to respond to them when we are not trekking!